Again, as in the previous installment of this two-part series, we start with the question: what is the best kind of gemstone for jewelry? Of course, there’s still no one answer, and there are still a lot of different things to consider. Luckily, there’s little we love more than talkin’ gemstones!

With that in mind, let’s pick up where we left off last time. Below, you’ll find a list of gemstones most commonly used in fine jewelry in alphabetical order, with details on what makes them more or less ideal for different applications. Some of these gemstones are perfect for engagement and wedding rings, but even more of them are great for necklaces, earrings, and the like.

Need us to hit on something we missed here? Let us know, and we’ll be happy to chat!

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Pearl

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Mohs hardness scale rating: 2.5-4.5

Pearls are extremely unique in the jewelry world, and probably warrant a separate blog entry all their own (say, now there’s an idea…)! They also have a long history, ripe with both symbolism and practical use. Roman women slept with pearls to sweeten their dreams; Asian cultures ground them into powder for remedies and skin treatments. Ancient Hindu writings tell the story of Krishna gathering pearls from the sea to give to his daughter on her wedding day, the start of a centuries-old tradition of pearls as the ideal bridal adornment.

Unlike the stones and earth which produce most gemstones, pearls are deposits of calcium carbonate that are produced in the soft tissue of living shelled mollusks like oyster and abalone. The most valuable pearls, known as natural pearls, occur spontaneously in the wild. However, the majority of pearls one finds on the market, known as cultured or farmed pearls, come from pearl oysters and freshwater mussels in a controlled environment. Basically all gem-quality pearls are iridescent and nacreous (nacre being the substance colloquially known as Mother of Pearl, which aside from pearls also appears in the inner shell of some mollusks).

Pearl is the traditional birthstone for June.

Wear and Care

Pearls require thoughtful care to keep them clean, radiant, and safe. Nacre is an absorbent material, so things like cosmetics, hairspray, perfume, ammonia and chlorine affect pearl condition. Pearls are also vulnerable to chemicals and hard knocks. All that said, they are otherwise easy to maintain: wipe them clean with a soft cloth (dry or damp) after wear, and keep them separate from other jewelry to prevent scratches. If you wear a string of pearls often, it is recommended that you restring them every couple of years. Do not use an ultrasonic or steam cleaner for pearls.

Peridot

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Mohs hardness scale rating: 6.5-7

Peridot (also known as chrysolite) is a vibrant, yellowish-green gemstone, a transparent variety of the mineral olivine mined in the United States (most especially the southwest states and Hawaii), Myanmar, Pakistan, and the Himalayas. It is found in lava deep in the earth’s mantle, and has even been recovered from meteorites! Gem-quality peridot is rare on Earth’s surface due to its susceptibility to alteration caused by weathering and chemical instability.

Peridot (along with spinel) is one of the modern birthstones of August.

Wear and Care

Peridot is only moderately hard, and is also temperature-sensitive. This means that the best way to clean it is with warm water, gentle dish detergent, and a soft brush. Avoid putting peridot in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner to prevent damage.

Quartz

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Mohs hardness scale rating: 7

Quartz is, in fact, a family of stones, encompassing amethyst and citrine (which we covered in our previous installment), smoky quartz (pictured here), and other varieties like rose quartz, ametrine, prasiolite, and more besides. It is durable, vibrant, and abundant in large sizes, making it a spectacular choice for big, bold everyday jewelry.

Both Ancient Greek philosophers like Theophrastus and Roman naturalist Pliny the Elder believed quartz to be a form of supercooled ice, permanently frozen after great lengths of time. The latter supported this idea by saying that quartz is found near glaciers in the Alps, but not on volcanic mountains. Remarkably, this idea persisted until at least the 17th century!

Wear and Care

Quartz is not readily prone to cracking or chipping. It can be cleaned by soaking in a solution of warm water and gentle dish detergent, then using a soft brush to clean the stone and around the setting. Ultrasonic and steam cleaners are also usually safe as long as the stone is not fractured or treated.

Ruby

SHOP RUBY

Mohs hardness scale rating: 9

Ruby is a breathtaking deep red gemstone, the most valuable variety of the corundum mineral species (which also includes sapphires). Many ancient societies held rubies in the highest regard, associating it with passion, courage, and romance, and these associations endure to this day.

Corundum in its pure state is colorless, but trace elements cause variations in color as they become part of the mineral’s crystal structure. In the case of rubies, the red is caused by the presence of chromium.

For centuries, India has been regarded as the ruby’s point of origin. In recent years, substantial deposits have also turned up in Sri Lanka, Pakistan, Afghanistan, Myanmar, Cambodia, and Vietnam. Ruby is both the modern and traditional birthstone for July.

Wear and Care

Rubies are roughly as hard as sapphires, meaning that only diamonds are considerably harder. As such, ruby jewelry is generally durable. It can be cleaned with warm water, mild dish soap, and a soft brush. As long as the stone is not damaged and/or color-treated, it will do alright in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner, but if you’re not sure, better to stick with doing it by hand.

Sapphire

SHOP SAPPHIRE

Mohs hardness scale rating: 9

Sapphire, part of the corundum family, is most recognized in its deep, dark blue color, but they actually come in all the colors of the rainbow and then some! These non-blue sapphires are known as “fancy” sapphires. Corundum in its pure state is colorless, but different trace elements cause variations in color as they become part of the mineral’s crystal structure.

Traditionally, sapphires symbolize nobility, truth, sincerity, and faith. In ancient Greece and Rome, kings and queens were convinced that blue sapphires protected their owners from harm and envy. Ancient Persian rulers believed that Earth rested on a giant sapphire and that its reflection colored the heavens blue.

Sapphires are found in the United States (particularly Montana), Myanmar, Cambodia, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Sri Lanka, Kashmir, Tanzania, Nigeria, Madagascar, and Australia. Sapphire is both the modern and traditional birthstone for September.

Wear and Care

Sapphires are nearly as hard as diamonds, so care is relatively easy. They can be cleaned with warm water, mild dish soap, and a soft brush. As long as the stone is not damaged and/or color-treated, it will do well in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner, but if you’re not sure, better to stick with doing it by hand.

Spinel

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Mohs hardness scale rating: 7.5-8

Spinel comes in a dazzling array of colors across the spectrum, including a striking red that has historically been mistaken for rubies. In fact, some of the world’s most illustrious “rubies” in history, such “The Black Prince’s Ruby” of the British Crown Jewels, are actually red spinels.

These color variations, as with most gemstones, are dependent on the presence of different trace minerals. Those deceptive red spinels, like rubies, get their crimson shade from chromium; meanwhile, orange and purple stones both owe their color to a mixture of iron and chromium.

Spinel is most commonly found in Myanmar and Sri Lanka, though there are also deposits in Tanzania and Tajikistan.Spinel (along with peridot) is one of the modern birthstones of August.

Wear and Care

Spinel is quite hard and well-suited to a variety of jewelry applications. The best way to clean it is with warm water, gentle dish detergent, and a soft brush. If it is not damaged, one could use an ultrasonic or steam cleaner, but if there’s any question, it’s best to do it by hand.

Sunstone

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Mohs hardness scale rating: 6.0-6.5

Sunstone is a unique gemstone which ranges in color from yellow to red-orange, and which exhibits a spangled appearance when viewed from certain directions. This optical effect, known as schiller, is due to tiny inclusions of red copper, goethite, or hematite in the stone.

Perhaps the most famous and coveted form of sunstone is Oregon sunstone, found in that US state’s south central high desert. According to Native American legend, the blood of a great warrior, wounded by an arrow, drizzled down onto the stone; this carried his warrior spirit into the stones and tinted them red.

Sunstone, along with moonstone and labradorite, is part of the feldspar family. Aside from Oregon, It is found in Mexico, Namibia, China, and Madagascar.

Wear and Care

Sunstone is only moderately hard and should be worn with caution to prevent scratching. The best way to clean it is with warm water, gentle dish detergent, and a soft brush or cloth. It is strongly not recommended to use an ultrasonic or steam cleaner for sunstone jewelry.

Tanzanite

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Mohs hardness scale rating: 6.5

Tanzanite is a relatively recent gemstone discovery, and one happened upon by accident! In 1967, a bolt of lightning triggered a wildfire which engulfed Tanzania’s Merelani Hills, burning the hillsides bare. Passing through after the flames subsided, local Masai herders noticed brilliant blue crystals on the ground. Although the herders were initially unaware, they had discovered the stone’s secret: when exposed to heat, its drab brown color transforms into sparkling shades of blue, violet, and burgundy, the viewer’s color perception shifting depending on how the light captures it. This effect is known as trichroism.

Tanzanite is only found in this small area in Tanzania, in a strip that’s only about five miles wide. This rarity inevitably increases the stone’s value. Tanzanite, along with blue zircon and blue topaz, is a modern birthstone of December.

Wear and Care

Tanzanite is moderately soft and can be readily scratched when brought into contact with other gemstones. As such, a protective pouch is recommended for tanzanite jewelry when it’s not in use. As with most softer gemstones, the best way to clean tanzanite is with warm water, gentle dish detergent, and a soft brush or cloth. It is strongly not recommended to use an ultrasonic or steam cleaner on tanzanite.

Topaz

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Mohs hardness scale rating: 8

Topaz is a stone that has been prized for centuries. Ancient Greeks believed that topaz gave them strength, and bestowed invisibility in times of emergency; meanwhile, ancient Egyptians believed that the stone was colored by the glow of the sun god Ra. During the Renaissance, Europeans thought that topaz could break magic spells and dispel anger. For centuries, many people in India believed that topaz worn above the heart assured long life, beauty, and intelligence.

Topaz is naturally colorless, but thanks to a variety of trace minerals, it has an exceptionally wide color range that includes various tones and saturations of blue, green, yellow, orange, red, pink, brown, and purple. Colorless topaz is plentiful and is often treated to give it a blue color. Topaz is also pleochroic, meaning that it can show different colors in different crystal directions.

Topaz is found today in Brazil, Mexico, Sri Lanka, Pakistan, Russia, Africa, and China. Golden topaz shares with citrine the designation of modern birthstone for November, and topaz is also the traditional birthstone for the month. Blue topaz, along with blue zircon and tanzanite), is a modern birthstone for December.

Wear and Care

Topaz is durable, and well-suited to everyday wear. It can be cleaned with warm water, gentle dish detergent, and a soft brush or cloth. Do not, however, use an ultrasonic or steam cleaner on topaz, as it is sensitive to heat.

Tourmaline

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Mohs hardness scale rating: 7-7.5

Tourmaline comes in a remarkable array of colors. It is also pleochromatic (meaning it shows different colors depending on how it is rotated), pyroelectric (electrically charged when heated), and piezoelectric (electrically charged when squeezed)!

Tourmaline is also unique among gemstones in that it is composed of a group of minerals, as opposed to being varieties of a single dominant mineral. These minerals include boron, and can also include aluminum, iron, magnesium, sodium, lithium, or potassium.

Tourmaline occurs throughout the world, with large deposits of various colors throughout the USA, but the largest volume and widest color variety comes from Brazil. This includes the coveted Paraiba variety, whose copper content yields an electric blue-green. Tourmaline is the modern birthstone for October.

Wear and Care

Tourmaline is fairly durable and scratch-resistant, and well-suited to everyday wear. It can be cleaned with warm water, gentle dish detergent, and a soft brush or cloth. You should not use an ultrasonic or steam cleaner on tourmaline, as it can damage the stone and cause fading.

Turquoise

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Mohs hardness scale rating: 5-6

Turquoise, with its vibrant coloring ranging from light, bright blue to deep blue-green, has been admired since at least 5500 BC, and is esteemed in myths and legends. It is said to protect the spirit and promote spiritual healing.

Some turquoise contains veins of black, brown, or yellowish-brown resulting from trace minerals; these veins are referred to as a matrix, and can form an intricate web-like pattern on the stone. While many enjoy these unique patterns, stones whose surfaces are unblemished by these veins are considered to be of the highest quality.

Turquoise occurs throughout the world, with large deposits of very fine turquoise occurring in the American southwest. Certain mines, such as the Kingman mine or Sleeping Beauty mine in Arizona, are famous for especially fine turquoise. Turquoise, along with lapis lazuli, is a traditional birthstone for December.

Wear and Care

Turquoise is porous and absorbent; as a result, we recommend applying any cosmetics, lotions, or perfumes before putting on turquoise jewelry. It can be cleaned with warm water and a soft brush or cloth. You should definitely not use an ultrasonic or steam cleaner on turquoise!

Zircon

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Mohs hardness scale rating: 7.5

Zircon (named after the Persian word “zargun”, meaning gold-hued) is known for its variety of vivid colors — ranging from colorless to yellow-golden, red, brown, blue, and green — and its dazzling sparkle. In the Middle Ages, zircon was believed to promote sleep, as well as bring prosperity, honor, and wisdom to its wearer.

As a mineral, zircon is also the source of the metal zirconium (which we cover in our ABCs of Jewelry Metals article). Contrary to some similarities in name, zircon is NOT related in any way to cubic zirconia, a synthetic gem of much lesser value. 

Zircon is found primarily in Cambodia, Sri Lanka, Vietnam, and Thailand. Blue zircon, along with blue topaz and tanzanite, is a modern birthstone for December.

Wear and Care

While zircon is moderately hard, its facets can chip and abrade easily. It can be cleaned with warm water, mild dish soap, and a soft brush or cloth. You should not use an ultrasonic or steam cleaner to clean zircon.

Want to learn more? Check out the first half of the ABCs of Jewelry Gemstones!

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