It will surprise nobody that two of the questions we get the most at our brick and mortar shop in Ann Arbor are “what kind of metal is the best for jewelry?” and “what kind of metal is the best for a wedding ring?”. No matter how many times we field this question, though, the answer is never simple! There are a variety of metals that can be used in fine jewelry, and each has its own unique pros and cons.

Below is a rundown on some of the metals commonly used in fine jewelry, and more specifically the ones that we use most in our shop. These are the metals most applicable to engagement and wedding ring shopping, but they can also be great for necklaces, earrings, bracelets… you name it!

If we missed a metal you want to hear more about, let us know; our staff is delighted to offer solutions to all of your metal-based problems!

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Cobalt Chrome

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Cobalt chrome rings have made massive gains in popularity in recent years. This lustrous, silvery white metal has the heft of gold and the look of rhodium-plated platinum, but it’s much harder and more durable than both and considerably less expensive. 

Cobalt chrome is an alloy made up of chromium, cobalt, and a few other metals. It holds up very well under high heat, which is why it is found in places like jet engine turbines. 

Wear and Care

Cobalt Chrome requires no special care, and can be worn in all kinds of environments and conditions. It will scuff and mar over time, but it generally takes a lot of abuse without cracking, breaking, or showing deep scratches. Cobalt chrome jewelry doesn’t fade or change color, and can be cleaned with a regular jewelry cleaner, steam cleaner, or ultrasonic cleaner.

Is cobalt chrome hypoallergenic?

Cobalt chrome is considered a hypoallergenic metal, though it can sometimes contain some nickel. It is considered safe to use in medical applications such as cardiovascular stents and bone repair. Despite the rarity of allergic reactions, those with nickel sensitivities might choose to tread cautiously. 

Can I customize cobalt chrome jewelry?

Cobalt chrome is versatile, highly customizable, and is excellent for inlays like meteorite, hardwood, carbon fiber, etc. It is a good metal for setting diamonds and other gemstones, and it is ideal for laser engraving.

When should I avoid cobalt chrome?

One of cobalt chrome’s major advantages is its hardness and durability, but this  — in tandem with the various inlays that are a popular adornment for cobalt chrome rings — makes it difficult to resize. Many small jewelry repair shops don’t have the tools to do so, and many makers who use cobalt chrome instead offer a size exchange program in place of resizing services. If you’re sentimental about keeping the exact same ring your whole life, cobalt chrome may not be ideal.

Damascus Steel

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Damascus steel is made by blending two different kinds of stainless steel. Skilled artisans painstakingly heat, bond, twist, and fold the layers of metal, creating one-of-a-kind patterns that are more durable than the sum of their parts, mimicking ancient metalsmithing techniques originally used to make samurai swords! After patterning the metal, there can be up to 100 layers in each piece of finished Damascus steel; like a snowflake, no two pieces have the exact same design or composition.

Wear and Care

Though Damascus is roughly twice as hard as titanium or cobalt chrome, it will scuff and show wear over time. However, the pattern and texture of the Damascus hides the scratches much better than other metals.

Damascus rings should avoid contact with salt water and harsh chemicals, as exposure to these strong oxidizing agents can make the ring more susceptible to rust. Under normal conditions, Damascus steel rings wear very well and do not have problems with rusting. While customers can clean these rings using jewelry cleaner, a steam cleaner, or an ultrasonic cleaner, all touch-ups or refurbishing should be done by a professional.

Is Damascus steel hypoallergenic?

All Damascus rings are made with stainless steel. Stainless steel can contain nickel and is not a good choice for those with nickel allergies.

Can I customize Damascus steel jewelry?

Yes, to a point! Damascus steel can be combined with alternative metals, precious metals, and combinations of the two. It can be inlaid in the center of a ring or off-center and in the sleeve of a band. 

When should I avoid Damascus steel?

The involved process of making Damascus steel also makes it difficult to resize without losing its character. Many small jewelry repair shops don’t have the tools to do so.

Gold

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Throughout the ages and around the world, gold has been treasured for its brilliant luster and ready malleability. It comes in three different colors (four if you count palladium white gold), and a variety of different levels of purity.

In the United States, one typically sees gold with its purity indicated in karats, most commonly 10k, 14k, 18k, and very occasionally 22k (pure gold is, of course, 24k, but this is almost never used as the base metal in jewelry due to its softness). A higher purity level yields a softer, warmer tone; it also ratchets up the price exponentially!

Yellow Gold (what most people picture when they think of gold) has a natural warm color and high resistance to rust, tarnish, and corrosion. It typically contains copper, silver, and zinc, which contributes to its rich coloring. It is a very strong metal, but still soft enough to be worked into interesting shapes. 

Rose Gold uses a higher concentration of copper to achieve its rosy pink tone. This alloy is similar in hardness and cost to yellow gold. Rose gold will not fade or change in color over time. 

White Gold is unique in that, due to the alloys used to add white to the natural warmth of gold (usually nickel, palladium, or silver), a higher karat actually means a harder metal.

Palladium White Gold (which is found in the purity designations 14kpw and 18kpw) is a white gold alloy that incorporates copper, silver, and palladium, making it a hypoallergenic white alloy with the heft and durability of palladium, and no nickel for those who are allergic. 

Wear and Care

Gold is softer than alternative metals and should be maintained accordingly. Precious metal rings should be removed during harsh activities to avoid scratching. While customers can clean these rings with jewelry cleaner, all other touch-ups or refurbishing should be performed by a jewelry professional. 

Is gold hypoallergenic?

Gold itself is safe, but alloys can occasionally contain nickel (particularly in the case of white gold). Luckily, there are a variety of alloys that are safe for sensitive skin, and even nickel-heavy alloys can be rhodium-plated to protect your skin. It is advised that you discuss your allergies with a jeweler to prevent any issues.

Can I customize gold jewelry?

Yes! Gold offers endless possibilities for customization. It is the easiest precious metal to resize and manipulate.

 When should I avoid gold?

Gold is in most ways the ideal metal for fine jewelry, but it comes at a heavy cost: as of this writing, it has far surpassed platinum, which until recent years had been considerably more expensive. However, gold is less prone to abrasions than some other metals, easier to resize and repair, and is also an excellent investment. If you’re willing and able to manage the upfront costs, it will prove worth it down the line!

Mokume Gane

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Mokume Gane isn’t a kind of metal so much as a production method, an ancient and painstaking technique which originated as a way to create adornments for Japanese samurai swords. When you see the finished product, you’ll see where all that work went: swirling patterns of mixed precious metals, no two pieces alike, recalling wood grain or the movement of water.

The mokume gane process begins by stacking thin, precious metal sheets into a length of metal known as a billet. The billet is then compressed and secured under great pressure while heated just below the melting point, but just above the temperature at which it begins to soften and melt. This specific temperature allows the grains or molecules of the various metals to cross boundaries and form a unique blended metal. In metallurgy, this is called a eutectic alloy. This billet is then rolled, folded, twisted, and deformed to create the characteristic Mokume pattern.

Wear and Care

Like any precious metal, mokume gane is prone to scratching and deformation. Depending on the metals, there may be a natural patina/etching over time, depending upon outside conditions, the pH in your skin and sweat, and the like. Careful maintenance and regular cleaning will help keep your mokume gane pieces in top shape!

Is Mokume Gane Hypoallergenic?

Naturally, it depends on the metal used in the process! Keep an eye out for nickel, and consult with your jeweler first to assure you get a piece that’s right for you.

Can I customize mokume gane jewelry?

Due to the complex process, there are limitations to how much one can customize mokume gane to meet their taste. However, those who are drawn to its unpredictability will find that mokume gane makes for a beautiful inlay for a custom ring! 

When should I avoid mokume gane?

If you love the look of mokume gane, the only potential pitfall is the price. Anything involving this kind of elaborate process is going to have a cost to it, doubly so if it incorporates higher-priced metals like platinum or gold. If it’s in your budget, though, mokume gane makes for gorgeous, endlessly unique jewelry.

Palladium

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Palladium is in the same family of metals as platinum, and shares many of its qualities. Both are corrosion- and tarnish-resistant, hypoallergenic, and of a similar white color. Palladium is a bit less dense than platinum, which means it is slightly easier to damage, but it is also lighter on the finger than platinum.

Wear and Care

Like platinum, palladium is beautiful, durable, and easy to maintain.

Is palladium hypoallergenic?

Yes!

Can I customize palladium jewelry?

Yes! It is as customizable as gold, silver, or platinum.

When should I avoid palladium?

Palladium is in a similar price range to that of platinum, but as of this writing, is slightly more expensive (though still less expensive than gold by a considerable margin). All in all, palladium is a strong option for jewelry, but it is only better than platinum if weight is a big concern. As with platinum, palladium poses some challenges in resizing.

Platinum

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Platinum is a rare and pure precious metal, requiring at least 50% purity to be called platinum (at Abracadabra, we work with 90-95% pure platinum, the highest quality available for jewelry making). This makes it an ideal metal for people with metal sensitivities and allergies. Platinum doesn’t fade, and wears well over time, though it can develop an attractive patina which is actually part of its charm.

Wear and Care

Platinum is a beautiful, and exceptionally durable, precious metal with a silvery-white shine that is easier to maintain than that of silver or white gold. It is also harder and denser than either, meaning it’s less likely to break or bend.

This durability has made platinum a go-to for those seeking tougher, wider, more durable bands with few to no stones. 

Is platinum hypoallergenic?

Yes!

Can I customize platinum jewelry?

Definitely! It is as customizable as gold, silver, or its sister metal palladium.

When should I avoid platinum?

Platinum’s prized hardness and density is also the source of its main drawbacks. Platinum rings are significantly heavier than silver or white gold, so you definitely notice more when they’re on your finger. Platinum’s density also makes it more difficult to resize than silver or gold. Many shops won’t even do it!

Platinum is also much more expensive than silver, and until recently, it was even more expensive than gold. As of this writing, though, gold has been skyrocketing well past platinum for months on end, putting jewelry stores in the unusual position of recommending platinum as a relatively low-budget option, despite its premium reputation.

Stainless Steel

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Stainless steel is a gray metal with considerable resistance to wear and tear. While not a precious metal, it can be well-suited to casual jewelry wear.

Wear and Care

Stainless steel’s durability means that it does not require special care.

Is Stainless Steel Hypoallergenic?

Yes!

Can I customize stainless steel jewelry?

To a degree, yes! Stainless steel jewelry is suited to engraving, etching, and inlays.

When should I avoid stainless steel?

Stainless steel is more challenging to resize than gold, silver, or even platinum. Many jewelry shops do not have the appropriate tools on hand.

Sterling Silver

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Sterling silver is a precious metal that is 92.5% pure silver (thus the shorthand ‘925’ used to indicate it in the jewelry industry) alloyed with another metal, usually copper. It has been popular for use in jewelry for thousands of years. It is also widely used in housewares, decor, and electrical components, among other things.

Despite being a precious metal, silver is more common and exponentially less expensive than gold, platinum, and other precious metals. This has made it a popular ring material for couples getting married on a tighter budget. 

Wear and Care

Like gold, silver is a softer, yet durable, metal which can readily be resized, refinished, and cared for. It is, however, considerably more prone to abrasion than gold. Silver can be cleaned with jewelry cleaner or a polishing cloth, but anything more extensive should be put in the hands of a professional jeweler.

Is Silver Hypoallergenic?

Silver can cause an allergic reaction. Rhodium plating is recommended to make silver hypoallergenic, as well as more resistant to tarnish and oxidation.

Can I customize silver jewelry?

Yes! Silver is readily customizable.

When should I avoid silver?

Silver has its issues, which are well worth taking into account especially when considering it for an engagement or wedding ring. Silver is much more prone to tarnishing and abrasion, so its upkeep is more challenging. It is also slightly more difficult to repair or resize than gold, which means that its maintenance is more expensive. Still, it’s a worthy option and the savings are considerable.

Titanium

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Titanium is a lightweight, corrosion-resistant gray metal. It does not fade or change color. Unlike other metals commonly used in jewelry, titanium allows for anodizing, an oxidation of the metal which refracts light in bright, vibrant colors. Anodization wears away quickly, but in the right design (ie. grooves and recessed areas), it can maintain its look for an extended period of time.

Our titanium artists exclusively use the Titanium alloy Ti6AL4V, an aerospace grade of the metal. This alloy is more expensive and harder to work with, but it is much stronger than pure titanium.

Wear and Care

Titanium is fairly resistant to physical wear and tear, which makes it ideal for those who are rough on their jewelry. It will scuff and show wear over time, but holds up to heavy abuse without cracking, breaking, bending, or fading. Titanium can be cleaned using regular jewelry cleaner, a steam cleaner, or an ultrasonic cleaner.

Is titanium hypoallergenic?

Yes!

Can I customize titanium jewelry?

Yes, there are many options for inlays and other customization.

When should I avoid titanium?

Due to its high tensile strength and low elasticity, titanium is more difficult to resize, and many jewelers do not have the tools on hand to do so.

Zirconium

SHOP ZIRCONIUM

Some people like things dark. If that sounds like you, you can’t beat zirconium! Though this metal is silver-grey in its natural state, a proprietary heating process causes a layer of hard black oxide to grow on the metal.

This black layer is harder than raw zirconium, but it’s also quite thin. Still, unlike oxidized silver or black rhodium, it will not rub off over time. It is also more durable than black-coated rings made of titanium or tungsten.

Wear and Care

While it doesn’t rub off, the black layer of zirconium can be scratched, at which point the metal’s natural silvery color may show through. If you’re rough on your rings, this might not be the metal for you. However, with proper care, zirconium can last many years!

Is zirconium hypoallergenic?

Yes!

Can I customize zirconium jewelry?

Zirconium gives the most options for design, style, and customization of any black material. It can be inlaid with hardwood, meteorite, carbon fiber, or precious metals, set with diamonds and gemstones, carved and laser-engraved, and made into unique designs and shapes. When a Zirconium ring has a carved or milled design on it, the ring can be either two-toned silver and black or all black.

When should I avoid zirconium?

As mentioned above, those who are rough on their rings might consider a different option, as zirconium can sustain scratches on its black outer layer which will reveal the lighter color underneath.

Want to learn more about jewelry materials? Check our our ABCs of Jewelry Gemstones!

READ PART I (A-O)READ PART II (P-Z)